Sun 11 Feb 2007
Thanks to Ben for pointing me to an amazing commentary by Tony Bourdain, author of the fantastic Kitchen Confidential. Writing as a guest on Michael Ruhlman's blog, Tony employs his signature whip-cracking, politically incorrect, dry style to critique the 'stars' of today's Food Network, and in general bemoans what's become of FoodTV. Here are a few choice tidbits but I suggest you take it all in yourself:
On Rachael Ray:
Complain all you want. It’s like railing against the pounding surf. She only grows stronger and more powerful. Her ear-shattering tones louder and louder. We KNOW she can’t cook… She’s a friendly, familiar face who appears regularly on our screens to tell us that “Even your dumb, lazy ass can cook this!” Wallowing in your own crapulence on your Cheeto-littered couch you watch her and think, “Hell…I could do that. I ain’t gonna…but I could–if I wanted! Now where’s my damn jug a Diet Pepsi?”
On Sandra Lee (of Semi-Homemade):
Pure evil. This frightening Hell Spawn of Kathie Lee and Betty Crocker seems on a mission to kill her fans, one meal at a time… I would likely be arrested if I suggested on television that any children watching should promptly go to a wooded area with a gun and harm themselves. What’s the difference between that and Sandra suggesting we fill our mouths with Ritz Crackers, jam a can of Cheez Wiz in after and press hard? None that I can see. This is simply irresponsible programming.
On Paula Deen:
I’m reluctant to bash what seems to be a nice old lady. Even if her supporting cast is beginning to look like the Hills Have Eyes–and her food a True Buffet of Horrors. A recent Hawaii show was indistinguishable from an early John Waters film. And the food on a par with the last scene of Pink Flamingos.
I couldn't have said it better, especially on Paula Deen. I'll never forgot my horror, watching as she poured an entire can of sweetened condensed milk on top of a pile of Krispy Kreme doughnuts for a nauseating version of bread pudding, as she smiled and said in her silky southern drawl '…and would you believe it, this recipe has no added sugar!'
Well, Bourdin can be such an asshole… but in that piece he's much much more right than wrong (in my opinion). Michelle and I enjoy his No Reservations show… Namibia was insane and Beruit during the Israel soldier hostage crisis was unforgettable.
[...] something Anthony Bourdain said about his most hated chef nemesis, Rachel Ray. (I noted this in a previous post.) Complain all you want. It’s like railing against the pounding surf. She only grows stronger and [...]
I think Paula Deen is a wonderful lady and I wouldn't call her "an old lady" like Bourdain did; however, I do believe she could cut way down on the butter, sugar and fat in her recipes when she does her show. Cholesterol and heart disease has a way of creeping up one and it may happen in her own family if she cooks home meals the way she cooks on TV. That, coupled with the fact she smokes, could be shortening her life.